Has Haute Cuisine Become an Endangered Category of Restaurant Cooking?

A chef friend recently encountered a New York food critic on the sidewalk outside her restaurant and invited him inside for a drink. “Why haven’t you been in?” she asked. They were old friends, or at least friendly acquaintances, but he hadn’t come once since she had opened, nine months before. “I can’t really support what you’re doing here,” he told her. “It’s too fancy.” The chef in question uses classic French techniques and luxury ingredients to create innovative new dishes; she has white linen on the tables and a crystal chandelier over the bar. Apparently all of this was… Read Full Article